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PostPosted: Thu Mar 24, 2016 4:19 pm 
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D30 chromos are 500 new, ya rarely see just shafts for sale by themselves, usually its a complete housing, ive seen some d30 rcv's go for 800 bucks or so, not sure id pony up that much, ive beat my d30 pretty good on stock shafts and 36's and broke prob 5 shafts or so, if i could get rcv's for 500 id jump on it


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 24, 2016 4:36 pm 
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onepieceatatime wrote:
I'd buy them for a 30 before I would for a 44. I think they would let a r&p in a 30 live longer buy not letting loose and not binding itself up and transferring the load to the ring and pinion. If you buy a 44 to swap in and then buy a set of RCVs you could have put tons in.

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Not sure I agree 100%. What do you think you can do one tons (cost wise) in a JK? Whats smallest tire you'd recommend on 1tons?

Another point to mention is a non greasable ujoint will eventually fail. Its not how, its when. If mud, dirt, or if it just runs dry...it will fail. I do agree if you keep it open and swap some chromoly in it you shouldnt have many problems, but ultimately you still have a chance.



zjman wrote:
D30 chromos are 500 new, ya rarely see just shafts for sale by themselves, usually its a complete housing, ive seen some d30 rcv's go for 800 bucks or so, not sure id pony up that much, ive beat my d30 pretty good on stock shafts and 36's and broke prob 5 shafts or so, if i could get rcv's for 500 id jump on it


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500$ doesnt sound too bad. Another thing to consider is the d30 is pretty well known to eventually bend. A truss would be a good idea. Unfortunately I often see the guys truss them then continue to sink money into them....you need to know when to stop.....


I still like factory replacements.

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 24, 2016 5:36 pm 
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It maybe worth buying a $500 set of chromo shafts if it will be awhile before you go 60s.

I still think a locked front is easier on parts than an open dif, it's you pushing the thing farther becuase it's locked that breaks stuff. But that's my own opinion.

My driving style breaks stock 30 shafts on 33s every trip.

Zjman is managing fairly well on 36s with stock shafts.

I think 35s on a 30 is about the limit no matter what axles are in it. Stay with your current tire size, run a stock shaft if it's still good.

If the shaft is ruined now, I'd buy $500 chromo and continue wheeling as you are.

If you break a ring and pinion, it's probably time for your 60 swap.

At that point you can sell the complete 30 for somewhat close to what you have in the shafts.

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 24, 2016 7:10 pm 
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Ive prob got a 1000 bucks in my d30 and i think its worth every penny, alot of guys say"ya coulda put a d60 in it for a little bit more". HORSESHIT. I just toatally bebuilt a 60 and by time i do steering its alot more than a 1000 bucks, not to mention mounts and links, a d30 built right and a decent driver can hold up well, im still on the r&p that i installed 4 years ago and its not right but its held, gurss it depends on end goal and budget, but like i said u can sell those chromos and get most ur money back. Paging caveman this is in his wheelhouse. Damn quitter


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 24, 2016 7:22 pm 
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zjman wrote:
...Paging caveman this is in his wheelhouse. Damn quitter


LOL...luv it. Thought the same beginning of thread.



zjman wrote:
Ive prob got a 1000 bucks in my d30 and i think its worth every penny, alot of guys say"ya coulda put a d60 in it for a little bit more". HORSESHIT....


Amen. Show me a built 1ton frt for less then $3.5k and I'd be very surprised. Factoring selectable locker, gears you need, chromo axles, brackets, knuckle mods, etc.... Couple that with the added expense of buying bigger tires (why run 1tons on 35s) and different bolt pattern wheels, it gets expensive quick.

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 24, 2016 7:22 pm 
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The greasable ujoints belong in driveshafts or street trucks, the hollow part creates a weak point and when it fails it usually splits at the grease fitting, i used spicer solud joints, good for couple seasons just depends on how much u wheel, u can pull caps and regrease em too, ctm and superjoint are solid and require some maintenance fairly often


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 24, 2016 8:22 pm 
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Heiney5 wrote:
zjman wrote:
...Paging caveman this is in his wheelhouse. Damn quitter


LOL...luv it. Thought the same beginning of thread.



zjman wrote:
Ive prob got a 1000 bucks in my d30 and i think its worth every penny, alot of guys say"ya coulda put a d60 in it for a little bit more". HORSESHIT....


Amen. Show me a built 1ton frt for less then $3.5k and I'd be very surprised. Factoring selectable locker, gears you need, chromo axles, brackets, knuckle mods, etc.... Couple that with the added expense of buying bigger tires (why run 1tons on 35s) and different bolt pattern wheels, it gets expensive quick.

But you don't have to build tons. Only money Jerrod has in his axle is disc brake conversion on the rear and some welding wire.

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 24, 2016 8:50 pm 
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He got very lucky and got a matching gear set and axles in good shape, my 60 was practicly junk from coming outta a mud truck so a complete rebuild even that damn kingpin, hes on leafs in the front too which is a bolt in, gears alone are a grand and lockers are crazy unless u lincoln lock it, i already have a pile of money in my 60, and jarrod got ur old steering set up so he got really lucky, i will prob have 1500 in my 14 bolt and it will be on leafs so times that by 2 or 3 for the front


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 24, 2016 9:09 pm 
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Clint said to show him some cheap tons so I did!

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 24, 2016 9:12 pm 
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Lots of good debate here guys. Thanks for the good discussion, I never thought my question would generate this much attention.

I'll try to summarize what I'm hearing.

1) Clint wants to sell his PR44. Honestly the option did cross my mind but there are several reasons (about 3500) of them holding me back. Plus, I certainly would have to regear my rear axle which adds another $500 depending on which brand gear and locker I drop into it. Plus, while I think it will bolt up the stock suspension arms, I'm not sure about the driveshaft length. Regardless, a new axle is out of my budget.

2) It seems to be a 50-50 regarding replace the joint or swap in new shafts. My plan for now is to drop in a new joint. I bought Moog non greasable joints, they were $16 each and a step above the cheap factory replacements (Dorman) the parts store sell. If I find the ears are bent or damaged, then I'll put in new shafts. USA Gear has a complete set available on Rockauto or Amazon for just over $400 shipped.

3) Plenty of debate can still be had on the longevity of shaft and R&P longevity against an open or locked diff. I would actually like to hear more on this issue. My gut says that turning both wheels with a given amount of power would be less stressful on the R&P than if I run that same amount of power through an open diff and the power is being transferred between the two shafts alternately based on which tire is slipping/gripping. Seems like alternating the power application across the diff would be a lot of stress. Again, this is just my opinion, I don't have any real world experience with my theory.


Since I have the joints, I'll try and get them in and and keep running it the way I have been. No need to overreact the first time I break something. zjman said it, and I will agree that I don't plan on going anywhere, so if I start breaking regularly or if the ears are damaged, I'll order up a set of moly shafts and put them in.

We're heading out on vacation Saturday, so I won't even attempt the repair until we get back late next week. In the meantime lets keep this discussion going.

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